🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.